The Kitchen, located in the ground floor of Soho’s trendy yet elegant new James Hotel, is the latest addition to David Burke’s restaurant kingdom.
It was our first experience within the DB Empire, unless you count the little foray to the David Burke location at Bloomingdale’s at 59th and Lex just prior to what turned out to be a deeply fulfilling dining experience.
Yes, we were on the phone with the maître d’ at the Kitchen, making a minor adjustment to the time of reservation even as we were trying on clothes and other anxious shoppers were knocking on the door of the prime, standalone dressing room we had commandeered to see if it was available. So we had to disclose our location and therefore, were given the order to stop downstairs at the boite for a glass of the famous sangria–and that’s where it all began.
Cut to several hours later and all dressed up for the occasion – although we could have come more casually– we walked into the warm, inviting space and unexpectedly met David at the door and relayed our pleasant Bloomie’s sangria interlude– the perfect capper to a tough day of shopping.
The restaurant’s interior is designed to reflect the surrounding SoHo neighborhood, blending the industrial, clean lines of a spacious, airy loft with that of a rustic farmhouse – a perfect “urban farmhouse” venue to showcase Burke’s locally sourced fare.
Guests can get a behind the scenes view of the open kitchen and a glass-enclosed wine cave from their perches in the 130-seat dining room. A central carving station provides an element of drama where a variety of meats including beef, game birds, ham and chicken are carved and popular menu items like lobster, whole roasted fish and casseroles are also plated for diners.
Taken to a spacious table, we were promptly set up with a round of Burke’s signature appetizers, which are served in jars, including a shrimp cocktail with horseradish and a chicken liver and pistachio pate. We also couldn’t resist a serving of what turned out to be addictive maple bacon wrapped dates.
There’s a whole starter menu to follow, which includes lobster soup, a traditional wedge salad with a twist—spiced pecans and dried cranberries, roasted beet salmon crudo and the signature salmon pastrami, served on thin pretzel sticks.
For our main course, we tried the award-winning lobster steak which Burke recommended, saying if the kitchen was out of it, he would make us one. It was a dive into delectability, one of those dishes that makes a foodie fantasy a reality. Yet it was a difficult choice. We were also tempted by the roast organic chicken, the dry aged prime rib eye, the sea scallops and the monkfish tail.
Somehow, we found room for dessert and tucked into the constructed chocolate and peanut butter sundae. Every bite was a distinct taste sensation that put us in choco-heaven. But the sweetness wasn’t over yet, as we were served a cheesecake pop tree, with various versions on lollipops.
Although the restaurant is known for its mixology and unique cocktails, it was New Year’s week and we celebrated a fine night out with champagne, and toasted to another upcoming visit in the near future.
David Burke Kitchen, 23 Grand Street, New York City, (212) 201-9119, www.davidburkekitchen.com
